Skincare Actives: What Are They and What Do They Do? — Part 1
Niacinamide, vitamin C, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, salicylic acid. You have probably seen these ingredients on skincare labels, product descriptions, and all over social media.
But what do they actually do?
With so many skincare actives available, it is easy to assume that you need several of them in your routine. You might even find yourself buying a new serum because everyone seems to be using it, without knowing whether your skin actually needs it.
The good news is that skincare does not have to be that complicated.
The key is understanding what each ingredient does, choosing one that matches your skin concerns, and knowing how to use it properly.
For Part 1 of our guide to skincare actives, we are breaking down five popular ingredients: Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Glycolic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Salicylic Acid.
First, What Are Skincare Actives?
In everyday skincare, the term “active ingredient” is commonly used for ingredients that are included in a formula to target a specific skin concern.
Some help with clogged pores and blemishes. Others can improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, dullness, or texture. There are also actives that support the skin barrier or help protect the skin from environmental damage.
This does not mean you need an active ingredient for every possible concern.
A good skincare routine starts with the basics: cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection. Actives can then be added depending on what your skin needs.
So, before adding another serum to your shelf, ask yourself one question:
What am I trying to improve?
That answer can help you choose the right active.
1. Niacinamide
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and one of the most versatile ingredients used in skincare.
Unlike exfoliating acids, niacinamide does not work by removing dead skin cells. Instead, it can help support the skin barrier, improve the appearance of pores and uneven texture, and help manage excess oil.
Because it can address several common concerns, niacinamide is found in everything from serums and moisturizers to cleansers.
What does niacinamide do?
Niacinamide can help:
- Support the skin’s moisture barrier
- Reduce the appearance of enlarged pores
- Balance excess oil
- Improve uneven-looking skin tone
- Improve the appearance of dullness and uneven texture
Who may benefit from niacinamide?
Niacinamide can be useful for many skin types. It is especially worth considering if your main concerns include excess oil, visible pores, uneven texture, or dull-looking skin.
However, concentration matters. A product containing a high percentage of niacinamide may not feel the same on your skin as a moisturizer containing a smaller amount.
Our Pick: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% combines a high concentration of niacinamide with zinc PCA.
The lightweight, water-based serum is designed to help with visible shine, congestion, uneven texture, and the appearance of pores. It also supports the skin’s moisture barrier.
It can be used in the morning and evening after cleansing and before heavier creams or moisturizers.
Best for: Visible pores, excess oil, congestion, dullness, and uneven texture.
2. Vitamin C
What is vitamin C?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant. In skincare, it is best known for helping protect the skin against damage caused by environmental factors while also helping improve the appearance of dull and uneven-looking skin.
There are several forms of vitamin C used in skincare. This is important because two vitamin C products can have very different formulas, strengths, textures, and levels of tolerance.
What does vitamin C do?
Depending on the form and formulation, vitamin C can help:
- Provide antioxidant protection
- Brighten the appearance of dull skin
- Improve the look of uneven skin tone
- Reduce the appearance of dark spots over time
- Support a more even-looking complexion
Vitamin C is often used during the morning because its antioxidant benefits can complement your daily sunscreen. However, vitamin C does not replace sunscreen.
Who may benefit from vitamin C?
Vitamin C is worth considering if you are concerned about dullness, uneven skin tone, or dark spots, or if you want to add antioxidant support to your routine.
Our Pick: Vanicream Vitamin C Serum with Ceramides
Vanicream Vitamin C Serum takes a gentler approach to vitamin C.
Instead of pure L-ascorbic acid, the formula uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate), a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C. It also contains ceramides and other moisturizing ingredients to help support the skin barrier.
This makes it an interesting option for people who want the benefits of vitamin C but prefer a formula developed with sensitive skin in mind.
Apply it after cleansing and before your moisturizer. If you use it during the day, always finish your routine with sunscreen.
Best for: Dullness, uneven-looking skin tone, and those looking for a vitamin C formula made with sensitive skin in mind.
3. Glycolic Acid
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid belongs to a group of exfoliating ingredients called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs.
It works on the surface of the skin by helping remove dead skin cells. This can make the skin appear smoother, brighter, and more even over time.
Unlike a physical scrub, glycolic acid provides chemical exfoliation. You do not need to scrub your face for it to work.
What does glycolic acid do?
Glycolic acid can help:
- Exfoliate dead skin cells
- Smooth the appearance of uneven texture
- Improve dull-looking skin
- Improve the appearance of uneven skin tone
- Make the skin look brighter and more radiant
Who may benefit from glycolic acid?
Consider glycolic acid if you are mainly concerned about dullness, rough texture, or uneven-looking skin tone.
However, exfoliating more often does not automatically mean better results.
Overusing exfoliating acids can irritate your skin. If you are new to acids, it is better to introduce them gradually and see how your skin responds.
Our Pick: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner contains 7% glycolic acid and is designed to improve skin texture, uneven tone, and luminosity.
The Ordinary recommends applying it once daily, ideally in the evening. However, beginners can start less frequently and slowly increase use depending on how their skin responds.
This product should not be used on sensitive, peeling, or compromised skin.
Glycolic acid can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Daily sunscreen is especially important while using an AHA and for a period after use.
Best for: Dullness, uneven-looking skin tone, and rough or uneven texture.
4. Azelaic Acid
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is another multitasking skincare ingredient. It is used in different strengths and formulations to address several skin concerns.
In over-the-counter skincare, azelaic acid is especially popular among people dealing with visible redness, uneven skin tone, blemishes, and post-blemish marks.
It also works differently from AHAs and BHAs, so you should not assume that every ingredient with “acid” in its name does the same thing.
What does azelaic acid do?
Azelaic acid can help:
- Improve the appearance of uneven skin tone
- Reduce the look of post-blemish marks
- Improve uneven skin texture
- Reduce the appearance of visible redness
- Support clearer-looking skin
Who may benefit from azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid may be worth considering if you have blemish-prone skin, visible redness, uneven tone, or marks left behind after blemishes.
As with any active, how well you tolerate it will depend on the product, its strength, and the rest of your routine.
Our Pick: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% contains a high concentration of azelaic acid in a cream-like formula.
It is designed to target dullness, uneven skin tone, textural irregularities, and visible redness.
Because this is a suspension rather than a watery serum, its texture is different from many of The Ordinary’s dropper serums. It is applied after water-based products and before heavier creams.
Best for: Uneven-looking skin tone, post-blemish marks, visible redness, dullness, and uneven texture.
5. Salicylic Acid
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, and it is especially popular in skincare made for oily and blemish-prone skin.
While AHAs such as glycolic acid mainly exfoliate the skin’s surface, salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to work within oily pores, which makes it particularly useful for congestion.
What does salicylic acid do?
Salicylic acid can help:
- Unclog pores
- Reduce congestion
- Improve the appearance of blemishes
- Smooth uneven texture
- Remove dead skin cells
- Improve the appearance of blackheads and clogged pores
Who may benefit from salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is especially useful if you deal with oily skin, clogged pores, blackheads, congestion, or blemishes.
That does not mean you should use it constantly.
If your skin becomes unusually dry, tight, irritated, or flaky, your routine may be too aggressive. Adding more acne products is not always the answer.
Our Pick: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a water-based serum designed for blemish-prone skin.
Its 2% salicylic acid formula helps target congestion, blemishes, and uneven skin texture.
It can be applied to the entire face or used on blemish-prone areas, depending on your routine and skin needs.
If you are new to salicylic acid, introduce it carefully rather than combining it immediately with several other strong actives.
Best for: Blemishes, clogged pores, congestion, blackheads, oily skin, and uneven texture.
Do You Need All of These Actives?
No.
More skincare does not automatically mean better skin.
Before adding an active, make sure you already have a basic routine that works for you. A gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and daily sunscreen can give you a strong foundation.
From there, choose an active based on a specific concern.
If clogged pores are your main problem, you probably do not need to buy three brightening serums first. If your main concern is dullness, you do not need to build an entire acne routine because someone else’s skin improved with it.
Give your skin time to adjust when introducing something new. Patch testing is also a good idea, especially when using stronger actives.
Most importantly, pay attention to your skin. Persistent burning, significant redness, peeling, or irritation is not proof that an active is “working.”
Skincare should work with your skin, not against it.
Ready to Find the Right Active for Your Routine?
Explore skincare from Skin Source MNL and choose products based on what your skin actually needs.
And if your favorite active was not included here, don’t worry. Part 2 is coming.